Three Weeks of Ceylon

Your chauffeur-guide meets you in arrivals. A small hotel by the sea at Negombo, a swim, an early dinner and sleep. Nothing else.

North-east through coconut country and paddy to the Cultural Triangle. After a rest in the heat of the day we climb Pidurangala, the rock next door, for the view of Sigiriya at sunset.

We climb Sigiriya when the gates open: about 1,200 steps, the frescoes, the mirror wall, the lion's paws and the palace garden on top. The afternoon is for the pool, or lunch cooked on a wood fire in a farming family's home near Hiriwadunna.

The medieval capital is flat and shaded and best seen from a bicycle, before the heat. In the late afternoon a jeep to whichever park the elephant herds are using that month, Minneriya, Kaudulla or Hurulu.

The five painted caves at Dambulla first, then a spice garden at Matale on the road south. Kandy by mid-afternoon, and the drumming and ceremony at the Temple of the Tooth in the evening.

The Royal Botanic Gardens at Peradeniya while it is cool, then a walk in the Udawattakele forest above the town, where the monks' hermitages are. The afternoon is yours: the market, the lake, a dance performance, or a rest.

The road climbs through Gampola and Ginigathena to Hatton and the estates around the Castlereagh reservoir. Your bungalow was built for a planter; the afternoon is a walk in the tea with the estate's own people.

A factory in the morning to see the leaf withered, rolled and fired, then a long lunch, a boat on the reservoir, a book. Between December and May the Adam's Peak pilgrim season is open and we arrange the night climb, about 5,000 steps, for anyone who wants it.

A 5am start for Horton Plains, a cold, high moor at over 2,000 metres, and the nine-kilometre walk to World's End before the cloud comes in at mid-morning. Lunch on the way down, then the short drive to Haputale on the southern lip of the hills. Afternoon free.

Up through the Dambatenne estate at first light to Lipton's Seat, where Thomas Lipton sat to look at his tea; then his 1890 factory. In the afternoon the hill train to Ella along the line's prettiest hour, a walk to the Nine Arch Bridge, and the car back to Haputale.

Out of the hills past Ella and Wellawaya to the dry plains of the south-east, stopping at the Buduruwagala Buddhas carved into a forest rock face. The camp by lunchtime, and the first safari this afternoon.

A 5.30am drive for the best light and the best chance of leopard, sloth bear and elephant, with the middle of the day at the camp. A second drive at four. Yala is a good place to look for leopard; it is not a zoo, and we never promise.

No jeep unless you ask for one. The pool, the birds in the scrub, the Kirinda temple on its rock above the sea at sunset.

West through Udawalawe, where we stop at the Elephant Transit Home to watch the orphaned calves fed, then up into the rubber and tea hills to the edge of Sinharaja. The lodge sits on the forest edge; the birds start at dusk.

A full day in the rainforest with a park guide, who is required and worth it. Sinharaja has most of Sri Lanka's endemic birds, and they move in mixed flocks that come through all at once. Also frogs, lizards, purple-faced langurs and leeches; wear long socks, and leech socks help.

Down through Deniyaya's tea and Matara to the coast. Mirissa is a bay with a headland; the afternoon is for the water.

A 6.30am boat from Mirissa harbour, three to four hours at sea, for blue whales, sperm whales and spinner dolphins, December to April. We use boats that keep their distance and do not chase; sightings depend on the sea. Afternoon free.

Nothing planned. Coconut Tree Hill at sunrise, a surf lesson at Weligama next door, or a seafood lunch on the sand. The car is there if you want it.

The short road to Galle, with a stop at the Koggala lake if you like. The Fort is a walled Dutch town of lanes, churches and verandas, best on foot; sunset on the ramparts with everyone else.

A last tea morning at the Handunugoda estate near Koggala, known for its hand-made virgin white tea, with the tasting on the veranda. A swim at Unawatuna or Jungle Beach, and a farewell dinner in the Fort.

The expressway to the airport, timed to the flight. For a flight before 10am we move the last night to Negombo.